07 November 2008
Rabies, houses and working 'til midnight
First up, my house: I've continued to go back and forth about where to live. The last update was that I decided to move in with my neighbors, Mingo and Clelia. I moved in on Monday (while they built me a door). After the first night there, I knew that it couldn't be a permanent situation. The Evangelical church is next door blasting its terrible music sung in tongues until 11pm; the TV is always on; the neighbors start up their ranchero music (also loud) at 5am; and there are just too many people there. So as luck would have it, a new lawyer moved into town needing a place to live as well! Her name is Jacquelyn, is 27 and is from Coban. We hit it off right away and were able to snag back the yellow house that I was originally going to rent. We're moving in Sunday! I was a bit worried after Mingo made me the door, but he said that it's not a big deal. And it turns out that Clelia is leaving him again, so it's better that I move out. I'll probably bring my puppy with me. Jacquelyn also mentioned getting a black lab together! As well as doing yoga in our upstairs, relaxing in hammocks there, planting a garden, and going on vacations in her car that she'll be bringing! I always knew the right option would come along. Just gotta have patience!
Second topic: working unbelievable amounts. I've been at the office until at least 8pm but as late as midnight for the past week. We were finishing up a proposal to the Fondo Nacional para la Conservacion de la Naturaleza for Q300,000 ($40,000) for infrastructure for my park. It is a ridiculously intricate format, but we did it! We finished last night, my counterpart turned it in today, and so now all we can do is cross our fingers! ... and relax, because we won't get the money until February. Vacation anyone?
Lastly, do to the working late and thus biking home at midnight, a pack of 3 crazed dogs chased me on Tuesday night. I screamed and yelled and kicked them while I was racing down the road. In all seriousness, it was pretty scary. I thought they were going to knock me off my bike and eat me alive. In the end, one of them managed to bite my calf, and once I got to the next block, they left me alone. But I don't know which one bit me -- I wasn't about to stop and analyze the situation with those blood-thirsty killers chasing me! Thus right now I'm at the Peace Corps office for my rabies vaccine. At least it's no longer 14 in the stomach!
So that's a little bit about my life right now. I may have sounded sad and lonely over the past month, which admittedly, I was. It's part of the roller coaster ride of Peace Corps life (especially with how isolated I am), but I feel like I have now fully rebounded. I'm back to being super happy in my site. I've started spending time with other families as well, so that I'm not as reliant on just the Rodriguez family, and with all this work, no time to be lonely! But yes, to sum up, I'm back to loving life and Chahal. I'll put up some pictures of my new house (and of the past 3 months) when I actually find an internet connection fast enough!
30 October 2008
Life's a Roller Coaster Ride
Thus, my plan: I'm going to move next door with Mingo, the son of Doña Angelica, and his wife Clelia and their baby. I already hang out there all the time and Clelia is my best friend here in Chahal. We'll see how it works. Perhaps when Doña Angelica returns I can move back in with her. But for the time being, I'm moving next door. I like my neighborhood -- playing in the street with the kids always lifts my spirits. I imagine that these lows will pass. I've been here for 10 months, what do I expect?
As far as my puppy goes, I've brought her over to the house a couple times. I fed her scrambled eggs because she is starving where she's at. She slept in my room, but first pooped and peed in there, as well as in the living room (I don't think Doña Angelica was too happy). Now the problem of what am I going to do with her. I can't bring her into Mingo's house; they don't even let their own dog inside. And his property's not fenced in. But if I leave her with Nuri (the little girl who gave her to me) she may die! My thought is to feed her, but keep her at Nuri's house.
So that's where I'm at right now. I have been a bit in the dumps, but it can't last forever, and I still have my highs as well. But as always, letters help :) My address otra vez:
Audrey Squires
San Fernando, Chahal
Alta Verapaz, Guatemala
Centro América
Hope to hear from you soon!
16 October 2008
Chimuy Chicoc
(The kids of Chimuy Chicoc. They loved my camera!)
The visit to this community also involves a hilarious story. When we left town, the mayor and his consejales realized that they had forgotten to “bring something” to the community. As we passed through the village just before Chimuy, the mayor pulled over and Don Cesario hopped out to buy 4 tiny bottles of Venado (Deer), an alcohol that is quite similar to rubbing alcohol. We continued down the road, then right before the community we stopped, got out the plastic cups that the mayor keeps in the truck for just these occasions, and prepared ourselves for the visit. Don Cesario poured the drinks – a good-sized shot of Venado plus a hint of Pepsi. Then we continued on our way; we were ready. However, we finished all the Venado and had none to share with the community; obviously I misinterpreted the phrase, “bring something to the community.” We talked for 2 ½ hours with the community about the projects they want. It was all in Q’eqchi’ (including the bit that I said), and I understood a good chunk of it. When we finished, the community members broke out a fifth of Venado light (who knew it came in light?) and mixed it with 7up. At this point I was a bit tipsy, and shocked that these men would give me alcohol – sometimes I feel like people see me as a male here, since I wear pants, am educated and work. We then ate our caldo (a type of soup – the typical local dish), I played with the kids, listened to marimba and we hit the road. We stopped at the tienda (store) where we had bought the original bottles of Venado in order to return them … and buy more! They wouldn’t let me say no, so I had another. I must say, my relationship with the mayor is now much stronger and friendlier … hmm, I wonder why?
Sometimes when I’m walking down the muddy streets of Chahal, I step out of myself for a moment and envision me standing on a globe in this random little town in rural Guatemala, then spin the globe to Springfield, Oregon and am baffled as to how I managed to come to this place of all places in the world. However it happened, though, it doesn’t really matter, I’m just glad it did. I am learning so much about myself and about the world through being here.
What’s more, my work is really coming together now. I hit six months in site and boom, I’m up to my ears in projects. It took the first six months to get to know the community and what it needs and how to work in this part of the world (i.e. slowly). But now, puchica vos (dang dude), I’ve got some really exciting projects on the table. First of all, my counterpart and I are working on a proposal with FONACON (Fondo Nacional para la Conservacion de la Naturaleza – National Fund for the Nature Conservation) for 300,000 Quetzales ($40,000), which we would use to build interpretative trails, bridges, a visitors center and other infrastructure for Las Conchas. It’s obviously not guaranteed that we will receive this money, but it is highly possible.
Secondly, we recently formed a committee to deal with the trash problem here in Chahal. Trash is a huge problem in all of Latin America, and all developing countries for that matter, but it came into the spotlight here when the passage was closed to the dump, the trash was thrown in the forest reserve for a couple weeks (which I later had to go pick up by hand, yuck), and then eventually moved to a forested ravine alongside the highway. So, my APCD (Program Director) Flavio came last week to check on me (he was very pleased, by the way) and we put on a workshop of what we can do to combat this problem. From there, we have formed a group of community leaders who really want to work on this. They come from the three main institutions in town: local government, education and health. I am very hopeful about the potential we have to make Chahal a cleanier, healthier, more beautiful place through a variety of steps, including building a sanitary landfill, teaching locals to compost, starting a recycling center, and simply having pride in their town. Sadly, though, we had a meeting this afternoon and I missed it because the visit to Chimuy took so long! But the group understood and forgave me because I’m going to make cookies for the next meeting!
Thirdly, I am working on another project proposal to create a park in the Areas Verdes (Green Areas) that have been set aside in town which would include a running/walking trail, playground equipment and a botanical garden with native plants. As well, in this proposal we’re going to ask for funds to build trails in the forest reserves (119 and 37 hectares, respectively). We are asking for the money from Perenco, the “local” French oil company that has its oil pipeline running through Chahal. I rubbed elbows with the head-honchos last week, and they said they would gladly finance this project. The money may be a bit tainted, but I figure it’s better to use it for something good!
I have handful of other small things currently going on, but those are my main focuses right now. Outside of work, I’m making more friends, including friends that want to go hiking/exploring with me or at least play basketball. And my co-workers in the muni are finally learning that they need to bring me on their treks to distant communities – I think I’m going to one this weekend – a half-day hike to get there! I’ve also been solidifying bonds with other volunteers lately. I still don’t plan to leave site often to go see other PCVs, but on occasion it’s necessary, and now quite enjoyable as well. This past weekend, after a month in site, we had an early Halloween party in Coban with some spectacular costumes (I was a 1987 Vegas cocktail waitress). I think the next time I see other volunteers will be for Election Day – we will need moral support just in case!
(Andy the thug, Audrey the 1987 Vegas cocktail waitress, Stephanie the costal and Tigo Ted)
I almost forgot! At the end of the month I’ll be moving into my new house. I am finally quite content, excited and ready to be in my own house. I may be lonely at times, but really, with all the work I have going on right now, when I get home, I’m ready to relax – read a bit, study some Q’eqchi’, cook a delicious meal. Plus, I’ve been here long enough that I have friends and families that I can visit, but this way, I won’t be confined to spending the majority of my time with the family I live with. And the house is adorable – it’s two-stories, yellow, wooden and with the bathroom INSIDE! It’s fenced in, which will be perfect for my new puppy Cacao. (She’s a mutt, but cute nonetheless.)
29 September 2008
When looking for a house in Guatemala...
- Does it have electricity?
- Does it have water?
- Does it have drainage for a toilet/shower or does it just have a latrine?
- Does it have a floor? (instead of just dirt)
- Is it made of wood or concrete block? (Snakes and other creatures can crawl through the gaps in the wood, and thiefs can break into wood houses pretty easily.)
- Does it have a pila? (the large concrete basin for collecting water since it doesn't fall all the time)
Hopefully I will have some luck with my search! I have to move at the beginning of November. I'm a little bummed about leaving my place, but I think in the end it will be good to have a little independence. And my new puppy will keep me company!

12 September 2008
Water or Electricity?
The water began to fall again, but then I was informed of the high cost of electricity and that we can no longer use the washing machine. Actually, Doña Angelica told me to keep on using it until they turn off our electricity, but I’m not going to do that. I thought she was just being facetious, until yesterday when she told me they’re going to cortar la luz (cut the light) in the house because she can’t pay the bill.
I feel, though, like I could live without electricity. It’s not a necessity. I don’t particularly like to watch TV; I can charge my electronics in the muni; I can make smaller meals so that I don't have leftovers; and going to bed earlier sounds quite appealing.
It turns out, though, that I may have to move anyway because word on the street is that she is closing up the house for a couple months starting in October (when Chino gets out of school) to go to El Quiche (another department) to take care of her mother. It’s a bummer, because I like my set-up, but at the same time, I like the idea of having my own place. It may be a little lonely, but I would just ride my bike around visiting people. Plus, it would give me something more to do, taking care of the house and yard. I would like to have to mow the lawn with a machete. First I have to buy a machete…
Stay tuned to see how my situation develops!
30 August 2008
Living Like a Chapina
Although I said I would try to write shorter and more frequently, I haven’t yet been able to realize that dream. I tend to avoid going to the internet these days, or moreover, I just have better, more interesting things to do with my time. Nonetheless, I will try to recap the last month concisely but intriguingly.
A Little Vacation
As I mentioned in my last blog, I was awaiting the arrival of my first visitors. Allison and Eefje flew in at the beginning of August and stayed for a week and a half. It was their first time to Latin America, so I tried to do my best as their tour guide. We hit up the Coban Feria first and rode the ridiculously fast, and I’m sure completely safe, Ferris wheel. From there, we met up with Ted, another PCV, at his site in northwestern Alta Verapaz: Laguna Lachua. A beautiful, pristine lake surrounded by the jungle. It also has a hint of a sulfur smell, which I savored (i.e. it reminded me of Yellowstone). After hitching a ride from the local police (no need to flirt, just the fact that we’re female, they’re happy to take us), we hiked the 4 kilometers through the jungle to the lake. We spent two nights there, and on the second night were joined by some other volunteers. It was a good time, and fun to mix two of my multiple worlds.
Next came meeting up with Jeanne and Erin in Flores, Peten, the gateway to Tikal, the capital of the ancient Maya world. We camped out in the park, giving us the ability to see sunset and sunrise from the temples, which were disappointingly unspectacular due to the clouds and fog. But the sounds of howler monkeys as we were hiking in the dark made up for it, although the voices of hundreds of people hiking along side of us did detract from the experience. In the daylight, I loved seeing spider monkeys swing from tree to tree, and toucans flying around; needless to say, lack of color in the sunset and rise wasn’t the end of the world. I would say the best part, though, was when our guide tore into another tourist for feeding the wildlife. It was brilliant. And of course, climbing the temples was stunning, and more of a workout than I had expected!
After some adventures throughout Guate, it was time for gringas (and Eefje) to invade my site. Nearly everyone thought that they were my sisters, even if they already knew that I only have one sister and she’s not coming until December. Allison and Eefje came Tuesday and left Thursday; Jeanne and Erin came Wednesday and left Monday. Thus, the two pairs were seen together by very few people, leading most people to believe that they were the same two friends. Obviously not the case (which you'll see once I put up some pictures).
Allison and Eefje didn’t stay long, but they were able to see the pageant to elect a new queen of the elementary school, we strolled through the market, and, of course, I took them out to Las Conchas. It was the first time I was really able to have fun there; typically, I go to work, or if we are going just to hang out, it’s with old men, which is just awkward.
Jerin does Chahal
Early Thursday morning they were off, and it was Jeanne and Erin’s turn to get to know Chahal. Since they just received their Master’s in Teaching, I figured I’d take them to my environmental education class. It was a riot. The kids loved having three gringas teaching them. We did a role play of water contamination where the kids had to put chemicals, trash, soap and urine into the river (a bucket) then we asked them if they wanted to drink it. The best part was when the queen of the school had to “pee” in the “river.” At the end, Jeanne added an English class which was also a riot. They’re typically taught:
Hello.
How are you?
I am fine.
My name is ______.
Instead, she taught them to say:
Hi.
What’s up?
You’re hot.
Call me.
It was especially hilarious when a kid said out of script, “you’re hot” to Jeanne.
That evening we were invited to a convivio with the muni in one of the communities. They were celebrating a new potable water project and signing the papers for it. It is incredible for these people – they will finally have running water after all their lives of hiking down to the river to carry it up on their heads. One of the leaders of the community thanked the muni for the project and coming to share in the celebration, then he said to us in Q’eqchi’, of course, “I have no idea who you are or why you’re here, but thank you for being here and visiting our community.” It was amazing. So I stood up and did my best in Q’eqchi’ to introduce ourselves and thank them. It was the best round of applause I’ve ever received. I just wish I could speak more Q’eqchi’, but it all comes with time, and depends on finding a good teacher. I’m now on my third and she’s not looking promising.
A New Interpretation of the Chicken Bus
As you may know, in Guatemala most of the transportation is on what we like to call “Chicken Buses.” They are old U.S. school buses that have made the trip south, received a new paint job, a luggage (or animal) rack on top, and a new motor, and now load up with sometimes more than twice their approved carrying capacity. We call them chicken buses because people tend to bring their chickens (among other animals) on the buses (likely transporting them to the market). Sadly, these buses are rare in my region of the country, but on my way back from Las Conchas with Jeanne and Erin we discovered a new kind of Chicken Bus.
We hopped on the microbus to head back to town after a refreshing dip in the river. It was relatively empty and we spread ourselves out in the back seat. There was a woman in the first row and a man in the second. I’m not sure which one the chickens belonged to, but now it doesn’t matter. They were little baby chickens with their legs tied together by string, and still alive, mind you. The man began picking them up, one by one, dangling them out the window for a moment by their feet, then dropping them. Maybe they were sick, but whether they were or not, he dropped live chickens out the window of the bus to suffer in the heat with their legs tied together. I don’t really understand. Especially because if they weren’t of value anymore, why would he have brought them on the micro in the first place? For that reason, I assume they were still decent chickens. Thus my next question is, why would he toss to the side of the road a potential source of food and/or income for his family, when they don’t likely have much? It remains a mystery to me.
Other Adventures in Chahal
Las Cuevas de Setzol – The caves in my site that are a potential ecotourism location. I took Jeanne and Erin there with some of my chapine (Guatemalan) friends. I had been once but didn’t go swimming that time. So this time we went swimming in the large river that passes through the amphitheater-like cave. It was incredible!
Marimba, no wait, cantina – The evening after the caving adventure there was a marimba concert and my friend’s school. He invited us to come learn to dance marimba. It was supposed to start at 8 o’clock; we arrived at 9 and they weren’t even close to starting, so instead we went and had some beers in a nearby cantina. (I originally thought that it would ruin my reputation to drink in town, but I have since learned that in the right places, it is okay for me to have a few.) We had a couple beers and ended up missing the concert. When we left, the girls insisted on paying, but the woman behind the counter wouldn’t even touch their money! They left it anyway, but the guys were not too happy about that later. Oh well, part of the Peace Corps mission is to share our culture, right?
Chino’s Bomba – Chino is the little boy that lives in my house. He is a riot; I love playing with him, anything from tickling to wrestling to just swinging him around. Typically, though, I just so much as poke him and he falls down on the floor laughing hysterically. This time though, perhaps a special presentation for Jeanne and Erin, when I tickled him he let out a huge fart (bomba)! It was absolutely hilarious. I get such a kick out of that kid.
I Still Work Too…
- The other week I finally introduced myself to the auxiliary mayors (each community has their own mayor). I gave them a short talk about the environment and offered my services to their schools. I really want to start getting out into the communities more and working with them.
- Last week I helped out two of the local teachers with an HIV/AIDS workshop for the 5th and 6th grade teachers in town. It’s something I’m planning on making a secondary project here. It’s definitely something they lack in their education, although, surprisingly, sex education is required in Guatemalan schools!
- Last month I started becoming hopeful that we were really going to start working after the exchange we did with the other park. However, I have still not met with the Municipal Corporation and the mayor. I was supposed to be in one of their meetings last week, but they didn’t let me come in. It’s quite frustrating. And the mayor just pisses me off because, even though he’s never here, he makes snide comments to me that I am off on vacation all the time. If he would bother to look at the plan I turn into him each month, or, heaven forbid, talk to me, he would realize that I have Peace Corps meetings that I have to go to, and that I used my vacation days when my friends came.
- My work relationship/friendship with my counterpart is really blossoming which will help my situation out a lot I think. We went to the park on Monday and had a productive meeting with the park guard.
San Luis Feria
Last weekend was the feria in my friend Alex’s town: San Luis Jilotepeque, Jalapa. It’s about 7 hours away, but was well worth the trip because some of my best friends in Peace Corps were there.
I started out the trip with chasing the microbus 8 blocks through town at 4 a.m. in my cowboy boots. It was supposed to show up at my house at 4:30 a.m. but I woke up to it honking at 3:45 a.m. I tried to stop it, but he couldn’t hear me shouting from the door and I wasn’t about to run outside in my underwear. By the time I threw on my clothes, he was gone. And that is the reason I sprinted through town. Luckily, I managed to not get bitten by any rabid dogs. Although one did receive a boot in the snout.
The highlights of the feria were climbing Volcan Ipala and swimming in its crater; dressing up in cowboy attire and going to the rodeo; dancing the night away; and, of course, just hanging out with those friends.
My Second Feria
Since we have two towns in Chahal, we have two ferias. It works out pretty well I think. Alex and I did “feria intercambio,” so she came to Chahal on Tuesday and stayed through Saturday. We ate some delicious tamales, watched the rodeo and danced like I’ve never danced in Chahal! The rodeo was pretty good, and PACKED! So many people and so few seats that people were watching from under the bleachers. On the last night of it, the announcer made the comment, “El que no aplauda tiene SIDA.” Translation: He that does not applaud has AIDS. After he said it the second time, I got up and asked him please not to say that, that it is hurtful and discriminating. He told me that if I want to do his job, fine, otherwise I can sit down or leave. He didn’t care to listen to me, but at least heard it. I was pretty pissed off after that, but it got better when some friends treated us to flour tortillas (I get a little tired of corn tortillas sometimes) and we went dancing. And the dance was more fun than any I’ve been to in my town yet … probably because people are no longer afraid to talk to me!
Biking to Las Conchas
I’ve always wanted to bike out to Las Conchas, but have never had anyone to do it with. But with Alex here, I had a biking buddy! I’ve heard a lot of numbers of how far it is, but I would say about 20 km each way. Between how shitty the road is and water, photo and chatting with local breaks, it took about 2 ½ one-way. It was absolutely amazing. The best thing I’ve done yet in my site. Being able to see the landscape slowly, without the noise of a motor was just spectacular. And stopping and chatting with the people from the communities – trying out my Q’eqchi’ on them. I’m now thinking this could be an option for ecotourism out here. By the time we got home we were absolutely beat, and soaked because it started raining at the end. But it was well worth it. I have missed so much feeling that point of complete exhaustion after extreme physical activity such as races and workouts, or the all-day hikes in Yellowstone. The one bummer was that we did not have enough energy to go to the marimba dance that night; I imagine there will be more in the 19 months that I have left here. (Yes, we are into the teens now! It is going by so fast … sometimes too fast.)
Bueno, until next time. Miss you all, and would love to hear from you!
Eventually, there will be pictures, but not yet. As you know, I live in rural Guatemala which means the internet connection is more like the tortoise than the hare!
04 August 2008
4 Months in Site - Oh how the time flies!
One of the major road blocks that I’ve had is that I can’t work by myself. I need the support of the Corporation (equivalent of the city council) and the mayor. But they don’t listen, don’t give me time and, moreover, simply don’t understand the concept of ecotourism. Times are changing though. At the end of the week we did an interchange with two well-developed ecotourism sites. It was organized for us by an NGO that helps ecotourism projects in the area. They brought all of us who are involved in the project in Las Conchas to Semuc Champey which is a park that has similar qualities to ours, and is run by a municipality. We also visited Las Cuevas (Caves) de Candelaria and went tubing inside the caves!
First off, it was awesome because, for work, I went on vacation to two beautiful places … for free. Second, the Corporation learned a lot and now understands my ideas, like an interpretive trail, and wants them as well. All in all, the trip was a huge success, I really think we’ll be able to start working now … just as soon as I come back from my vacation :) .
Although my project has been coming along slowly and I had been disenchanted with that part of my life in Chahal, that is only one part of why I’m here. Two of the three goals of Peace Corps is cultural exchange, and I am excelling in that facet. I love living in Chahal. I love the family that I am living with, and they love me. One of the sons told me the other night his mom wants her son that is in Spain to come back and for us to get married and that we can have the house together! Probably not going to happen, but it means a lot to me that she thinks that highly of me.
Well, that’s all for now. As suggested by my sister, I’m going to try to start writing shorter blogs more frequently so that it’s easier for you all to stay caught up on my life.
About Semuc Champey and some pics:
Semuc Champey is a well-developed park now, thanks in part to six years of Peace Corps Volunteers. The site's now closed for PCVs though ... they don't really need our help anymore.
These are pools of water made from springs running off the mountainside. They're not actually part of the river, just sit on top of it while the river runs underneath them in a cave!
The waterfall is the pools joining with the river as the river comes out of the cave!
That's my counterpart, Heimer, in front, plus a handful of the guys from the muni.
Sweeeeeet views from the mirador they built up on the mountainside.

