Building a classroom out of trash, starting a girls’ basketball club, painting murals – these are secondary projects that I never imagined taking on before I arrived in Guatemala, but how much did I really envision correctly before beginning the Peace Corps? In the end, as an ecotourism volunteer and a woman in Guatemala, these projects made sense. What I never could have imagined, but what became my most time-consuming secondary project, yet perhaps my most profound impact, was sending a rapist to jail.
Ten months into my service in Chahal, Alta Verapaz, after having consistently run long distances on the local, admittedly intermittently isolated, roads without problem, I was attacked. It was an out-and-back run which allowed my attacker to await my return. At about 41 minutes out, I turned around and in the distance saw two figures heading into the brush on the side of the road. I assumed they were two young boys who had just yelled “adios gringa!” at me when I past a nearby house.
As I approached where they had hidden themselves and saw no one, I became a little nervous and thought, “That’s strange.” I should’ve trusted my instincts, because in that moment, one jumped out. Always too trusting, I said, “hola,” thinking he was friendly. The shirt pulled over his head should’ve been a dead give away. When he started yelling at me in Q’eqchi’ (the local indigenous language) and approached me even when I said, “no tengo dinero” and waved my hands, I was scared. I knew then that he wanted me; it wasn’t a simple robbery.
He grabbed me by my upper arms and tried to drag me into the bushes. During this I saw a pick-up in the distance, which felt like a mirage – I would be dragged off and raped before it saw me. I was afraid for my life. I squirmed and fought enough that I was able to bite his right forearm and break free momentarily. I ran a few strides then felt him grab the back of my shorts and try to pull me back, but I kept on running and escaped.
I sprinted to the car without looking back. I guess he saw the car and spooked, escaping into the brush before he could be identified. Luckily, the driver was the ex-mayor with whom I was friends and trusted. “Tranquila seño” (calm miss) he told me when he left me to wait in his truck while he searched the fields to no avail. After dropping the cow off that he was selling, he took me home to my roommate and dog where they convinced me to press charges.
I didn’t call Peace Corps until the next day when the tears subsided. I also waited because I was afraid this would constitute a site change. But really, how could I have stayed? A quick move across the country took me months to overcome, but I did and, in the end, excelled in my new site.
After the fact, co-workers in Chahal said to me, “Oh yeah, I meant to tell you not to run there; there are rapists.” It would’ve been nice to know beforehand; I’d like to believe I would’ve listened to them.
That brings me to the aftermath – learning that this kid (18 years old, leader of a gang) had succeeded in raping girls from his village and other passers-by, but that they were too afraid to come forward (and rightfully so), I sought justice for their sake and to send a message to the men in the community. Hopefully the message was not interpreted as, you can’t attack gringas and get away with it, but rather that they need to show a higher level of respect for all women.
The court process was like most things in Guatemala – slow and corrupt. It is currently spanning 20 months. It began with statements and identifications and culminated in a six week trial. Days in court were far too short – we were only given a few hours at a time every 10 days, thus dragging out the process.
Peace Corps has been unconditionally supportive throughout this whole process, which included accompanying me on about ten different trips across the country to Cobán, providing an excellent lawyer and a Policia Nacional Civil bodyguard for the trial.
I never actually saw the perpetrator until the trial, but I positively identified him through photos that showed his six gold crowns. He was arrested but let out on bail, which allowed him and his gang to continue assaulting buses in order to pay his lawyer fees. When I finally saw him at the trial, I was not afraid to face him, while in previous months I would’ve been. I was seated in the courtroom when he entered and said “Buenos días” to the room. While not afraid, I still couldn’t bring myself to return the greeting.
He was on trial for attempted rape – we had to prove to the three judges (there is no jury in order to avoid bribes, intimidations and killings) that it was him and that his intentions were rape; the defense had to create doubt in that. We had a solid line-up of witnesses: me, the man who saved me, two psychologists, and the PNC investigator. Despite that the judge president was dozing off, and that I had to translate myself for my English-Spanish translator, I did well, although I couldn’t squeeze out any tears.
The defendant’s witnesses were his father, brother, mother and two brothers-in-law. They held no weight, being all family. The story was that the defendant was at the community soccer game from 3-6 pm (attack happened at 5pm). Since when do soccer games last three hours? They all had the same outline but differed on key details. His mom didn’t even know what day she was talking about. His brother-in-law said, “I just want Efraín to be free.”
Finally, on the fifth day of the trial, we gave our closing statements. I made a plea that the judges do their job and bring justice, not for me, because I was able to leave to safety, but for the women of Chahal who cannot. Waiting for the verdict, we were nervous that the judges would be misogynistic and/or side with their countryman. But when we returned to the courtroom, we were pleasantly surprised by a unanimous guilty verdict and the maximum sentence of eight years. It was the first ever conviction for attempted rape in the department (state) Alta Verapaz since it’s so hard to prove, and because most people blame the women.
I didn’t turn to look at his reaction, but I’m sure it was one of shock. I was expecting them to cuff him and haul him off to jail right away, but he was given ten days to file an appeal. Supposedly, if they had hauled him off then, it would’ve been a violation of his human rights, which in this country only protect the criminals. What about the human rights of the women in his community?
He filed the appeal (and probably held up another bus to pay the lawyer) and is still sitting at home waiting to see if they overturn the case (it has now been three months since he was convicted). I am (obviously) hoping that he loses the appeal. If he wins, I will have to return to Guatemala for a retrial. I want to return to this country that I love, but under different circumstances. I would love to, one day, return to my beloved Chahal. I have not been able to since I left in January 2009. Despite the negative experience that I suffered there, it is still full of so many wonderful people and good friends of mine; I just hope that one day it will be safe enough for me to return.
17 August 2010
Travel photos
You can keep track of me through my photos at:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2053668&id=27500355&l=1373bafc6c
This album currently has Guatemala, El Salvador and Belize. Tomorrow I leave for Nicaragua and over the next 2 months will work my way through Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. I will do my best to keep you updated!!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2053668&id=27500355&l=1373bafc6c
This album currently has Guatemala, El Salvador and Belize. Tomorrow I leave for Nicaragua and over the next 2 months will work my way through Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. I will do my best to keep you updated!!
31 July 2010
Adventure
As you probably know, I finished Peace Corps last month (June 22nd to be exact). So you may be wondering why the hell I'm not back in the U.S. yet. You make a point, but ever since I knew I was headed to Guatemala almost 3 years ago, I knew I wanted to take advantage of my southern location and travel before I was stuck back in the States again. Thus, I am on the road. And here is my story.
My college running friend Carly met me at the beginning of July to discover Guatemala and neighboring countries. To start the adventure, after much too much debate over the safety of the safety of climbing a volcano in Guatemala, we determined that we were okay in a group of five (3 women, 2 men, 1 being Guatemalan). And we were okay, except for getting lost for about 45 minutes. After 5 hours, we found the peak at 3722 meters, along with some cows and some clouds. Then we hurried on down, showered, and hopped on a 3 hour bus ride to Lago de Atitlan to take in some beautiful vistas and watch the World Cup final.
The next leg of the trip was in El Salvador. Rumored to have better beaches than Guatemala and to be a great place to learn to surf, that was the plan. However, it seemed that the recent tropical storms had strewn rock all over the beaches. So after one night at the beach, we packed up and headed to the mountain town of Juayua, where we scaled waterfalls and ate pupusas. We only spent four days in El Salvador, and despite being an extremely small country, it warranted much more time. El Salvador is very clean and friendly. I will definitely return one day.
At the end of that week, we took quite a long bus trip through unpaved mountain roads to the Honduras border and headed to the Mayan ruins at Copan.
After having been to various Mayan sites, I assumed I could do it without a guide. However, once I was in there, I realized it would be a wasted journey to this remote location to just stare at some temples and statues and not understand what was behind them. Thus we returned to the gate and paid the guide fee and re-entered the park. In the end, it was well worth the money and the time to use a guide. We learned about the Altar Q, which is where the most important animal sacrifices took place (15 jaguars and 2 scarlet macaws together). What I also found quite interesting was that they had painted all their temples red and had placed a white stucco floor throughout the grounds. Anyway, it was a very interesting place that was worth the long side trip.
From there we traveled to the port town of Puerto Cortes to catch a boat to Belize. Yes, it was a very short stay in Honduras, but as I look at it, it gave us a chance to learn what to come back for.
The boat was an adventure in itself. Dodging logs in the bay of Honduras nearly caused us to flip, but eventually we arrived in Placencia, Belize safe and dry. That was nearly two weeks ago, and I am still in Belize! Carly got a short taste of the country, since she flew out last Friday, but I'm pretty sure she still enjoyed it. We were in the sleepy ex-pat beach town of Placencia, then headed to Hopkins, a Garifuna village (black Caribs), but on the way had to wait for 5 hours for a bridge to unflood! In Hopkins we got to see local drumming and try to dance the punta. To end Carly's adventure, we took a boat out to the island of Caye Caulker, rented bikes and ate cinnamon rolls.
It was fantastic having a traveling partner as great as Carly! And now I am "on my own," but not really. Last Saturday, my first day sola, I did a full day snorkeling trip where I met a new friend, Hannah, and for the rest of the weekend (meals, runs and a fishing trip), I hung out with her and her friend Jennifer. Snorkeling was incredible, swimming with manatees, sting rays, nurse sharks, various fish, lobster and octopus. Then fishing, we landed some delicious silk snapper and baracuda, and even attempted spear fishing! Quite the adventure!
Now I am assisting with jaguar research. I met the professor who is doing the research at a population dynamics conference my senior year and have stayed in touch. Now I'm helping her hike out to check the cameras that she uses for camera trapping, but also, I get to take breaks with her, which entails heading up to the Mountain Pine Ridge, which is famous for rich white people and resorts. She has friends here that help fund her research and also offer room and board when needed, and well, right now it is needed! :)
At the end of the week, after being back in the field and being devoured by mosquitoes and mud, I will head back to Guatemala to say my final goodbyes and to meet up with my next traveling partner, Laura, and head south to Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. Then she leaves, and I will meet up with my Colombian friends, my Ecuadorian family, and then my (real) sister in Peru. I finally have my ticket home de una vez (for good, as we say down here) for October 13th. Do you think I can handle the US/the US can handle me?
My college running friend Carly met me at the beginning of July to discover Guatemala and neighboring countries. To start the adventure, after much too much debate over the safety of the safety of climbing a volcano in Guatemala, we determined that we were okay in a group of five (3 women, 2 men, 1 being Guatemalan). And we were okay, except for getting lost for about 45 minutes. After 5 hours, we found the peak at 3722 meters, along with some cows and some clouds. Then we hurried on down, showered, and hopped on a 3 hour bus ride to Lago de Atitlan to take in some beautiful vistas and watch the World Cup final.
The next leg of the trip was in El Salvador. Rumored to have better beaches than Guatemala and to be a great place to learn to surf, that was the plan. However, it seemed that the recent tropical storms had strewn rock all over the beaches. So after one night at the beach, we packed up and headed to the mountain town of Juayua, where we scaled waterfalls and ate pupusas. We only spent four days in El Salvador, and despite being an extremely small country, it warranted much more time. El Salvador is very clean and friendly. I will definitely return one day.
At the end of that week, we took quite a long bus trip through unpaved mountain roads to the Honduras border and headed to the Mayan ruins at Copan.
After having been to various Mayan sites, I assumed I could do it without a guide. However, once I was in there, I realized it would be a wasted journey to this remote location to just stare at some temples and statues and not understand what was behind them. Thus we returned to the gate and paid the guide fee and re-entered the park. In the end, it was well worth the money and the time to use a guide. We learned about the Altar Q, which is where the most important animal sacrifices took place (15 jaguars and 2 scarlet macaws together). What I also found quite interesting was that they had painted all their temples red and had placed a white stucco floor throughout the grounds. Anyway, it was a very interesting place that was worth the long side trip.
From there we traveled to the port town of Puerto Cortes to catch a boat to Belize. Yes, it was a very short stay in Honduras, but as I look at it, it gave us a chance to learn what to come back for.
The boat was an adventure in itself. Dodging logs in the bay of Honduras nearly caused us to flip, but eventually we arrived in Placencia, Belize safe and dry. That was nearly two weeks ago, and I am still in Belize! Carly got a short taste of the country, since she flew out last Friday, but I'm pretty sure she still enjoyed it. We were in the sleepy ex-pat beach town of Placencia, then headed to Hopkins, a Garifuna village (black Caribs), but on the way had to wait for 5 hours for a bridge to unflood! In Hopkins we got to see local drumming and try to dance the punta. To end Carly's adventure, we took a boat out to the island of Caye Caulker, rented bikes and ate cinnamon rolls.
It was fantastic having a traveling partner as great as Carly! And now I am "on my own," but not really. Last Saturday, my first day sola, I did a full day snorkeling trip where I met a new friend, Hannah, and for the rest of the weekend (meals, runs and a fishing trip), I hung out with her and her friend Jennifer. Snorkeling was incredible, swimming with manatees, sting rays, nurse sharks, various fish, lobster and octopus. Then fishing, we landed some delicious silk snapper and baracuda, and even attempted spear fishing! Quite the adventure!
Now I am assisting with jaguar research. I met the professor who is doing the research at a population dynamics conference my senior year and have stayed in touch. Now I'm helping her hike out to check the cameras that she uses for camera trapping, but also, I get to take breaks with her, which entails heading up to the Mountain Pine Ridge, which is famous for rich white people and resorts. She has friends here that help fund her research and also offer room and board when needed, and well, right now it is needed! :)
At the end of the week, after being back in the field and being devoured by mosquitoes and mud, I will head back to Guatemala to say my final goodbyes and to meet up with my next traveling partner, Laura, and head south to Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. Then she leaves, and I will meet up with my Colombian friends, my Ecuadorian family, and then my (real) sister in Peru. I finally have my ticket home de una vez (for good, as we say down here) for October 13th. Do you think I can handle the US/the US can handle me?
28 July 2010
Corrupt cops and drinking bus drivers
I have a few final adventures from Guatelandia for you all. These are two things that I always knew occurred, but had never witnessed it with my own eyes.
A trip to the ruins at Mixco Viejo:
Earlier this month, I made a very quick trip to with my Guatemalan friend Marilyn to the ruins at Mixco Viejo before I made my debut in USA attire at the Peace Corps 4th of July party. A longer than expected bus ride plus oversleeping left us only 20 minutes in the ruins, but it was still beautiful.
To return, we warmed up our thumbs and hiked up our shorts. The first truck that passed seemed willing, except its bed was full of pigs. Dang. Next, an ambulance -- grabbing my ankle didn't make it stop. Then another pick up rolled around the corner, shiny and new. Before Marilyn was able to say, "they're probably narcos," my thumb was in position.
It stopped and the young driver invited us into the cab with his female friend (otherwise we would've ridden in the bed).
Nearing the end of the journey (and mind you, in a hurry), a cop ushered us over to the shoulder. Our new friend hadn't done anything wrong, but the looks of his ride prompted the cops to ask him if he had any firearms and their respective permits. Why yes officer, he did.
He reached into the glove compartment, took out the gun, unloaded it, and passed it to the officer. Due to a license that had expired only two days prior, the officers detained us (rather than issuing a warning or a ticket) until the driver gave in and offered them money (I believe Q100/$12). It was done covertly, with the hands in the bed of the truck, then with a rejoiceful handshake/hug like men do and we were on our way.
Drinking and driving a chicken bus
While most bus drivers in Guatemala drive like they've been drinking, I had never had proof, until now. My driver from Santa Lucia to Antigua (a mountainous windy road) whipped out a Gallo (the national beer) and wrapped it in a towel. I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised, but I still can't believe someone would be so obvious about it!
When I get a chance, I'll update you all about my current travels through El Salvador, Honduras and Belize. Hold tight!
A trip to the ruins at Mixco Viejo:
Earlier this month, I made a very quick trip to with my Guatemalan friend Marilyn to the ruins at Mixco Viejo before I made my debut in USA attire at the Peace Corps 4th of July party. A longer than expected bus ride plus oversleeping left us only 20 minutes in the ruins, but it was still beautiful.
To return, we warmed up our thumbs and hiked up our shorts. The first truck that passed seemed willing, except its bed was full of pigs. Dang. Next, an ambulance -- grabbing my ankle didn't make it stop. Then another pick up rolled around the corner, shiny and new. Before Marilyn was able to say, "they're probably narcos," my thumb was in position.
It stopped and the young driver invited us into the cab with his female friend (otherwise we would've ridden in the bed).
Nearing the end of the journey (and mind you, in a hurry), a cop ushered us over to the shoulder. Our new friend hadn't done anything wrong, but the looks of his ride prompted the cops to ask him if he had any firearms and their respective permits. Why yes officer, he did.
He reached into the glove compartment, took out the gun, unloaded it, and passed it to the officer. Due to a license that had expired only two days prior, the officers detained us (rather than issuing a warning or a ticket) until the driver gave in and offered them money (I believe Q100/$12). It was done covertly, with the hands in the bed of the truck, then with a rejoiceful handshake/hug like men do and we were on our way.
Drinking and driving a chicken bus
While most bus drivers in Guatemala drive like they've been drinking, I had never had proof, until now. My driver from Santa Lucia to Antigua (a mountainous windy road) whipped out a Gallo (the national beer) and wrapped it in a towel. I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised, but I still can't believe someone would be so obvious about it!
When I get a chance, I'll update you all about my current travels through El Salvador, Honduras and Belize. Hold tight!
Bottle Classroom Funding!!
The bottle school has been funded. Thank you to HUG IT FORWARD for helping us finish our project in La Cereza. My replacement, Amber, will be directing the final steps... and she'll be updating me so that I can update you all. Thanks again to all those who supported us; this has been an important pilot project for San Carlos Sija. We expect to see more soon.
28 June 2010
Handing off the bottle school
You may be wondering, "now that you're done with your Peace Corps service, what will happen to the bottle project?" Well, have no fear. The PCV who replaced me, Amber, will take charge of finishing it. There is a US-based NGO looking to fund the remainder of the project. Cross your fingers! She will keep us updated on the progress of it.
Here are some pictures of the despedida (farewell) that the school did for me. The preschool kids were so excited to eat the steak that the teachers were preparing! Then we've got Amber and I. The directora giving me a diploma for my work. The whole school thanking YOU for your support. And finally, the teachers and the PCVs.
Here are some pictures of the despedida (farewell) that the school did for me. The preschool kids were so excited to eat the steak that the teachers were preparing! Then we've got Amber and I. The directora giving me a diploma for my work. The whole school thanking YOU for your support. And finally, the teachers and the PCVs.
Fun Final Projects
I am officially an RPCV! (Returned Peace Corps Volunteer) I finished on Tuesday June 22nd and rushed home for my brother's wedding. Tomorrow I'm heading back for some post-PC travels through Central and South America. But before that (which I'll try to write about), here are two final things that I did in Sija: a field day activity with the other PCV and the local school in our park; and painting a mural at Agua Caliente with my painter friend from Guate, Marilyn Boror.
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