Although I said I would try to write shorter and more frequently, I haven’t yet been able to realize that dream. I tend to avoid going to the internet these days, or moreover, I just have better, more interesting things to do with my time. Nonetheless, I will try to recap the last month concisely but intriguingly.
A Little Vacation
As I mentioned in my last blog, I was awaiting the arrival of my first visitors. Allison and Eefje flew in at the beginning of August and stayed for a week and a half. It was their first time to Latin America, so I tried to do my best as their tour guide. We hit up the Coban Feria first and rode the ridiculously fast, and I’m sure completely safe, Ferris wheel. From there, we met up with Ted, another PCV, at his site in northwestern Alta Verapaz: Laguna Lachua. A beautiful, pristine lake surrounded by the jungle. It also has a hint of a sulfur smell, which I savored (i.e. it reminded me of Yellowstone). After hitching a ride from the local police (no need to flirt, just the fact that we’re female, they’re happy to take us), we hiked the 4 kilometers through the jungle to the lake. We spent two nights there, and on the second night were joined by some other volunteers. It was a good time, and fun to mix two of my multiple worlds.
Next came meeting up with Jeanne and Erin in Flores, Peten, the gateway to Tikal, the capital of the ancient Maya world. We camped out in the park, giving us the ability to see sunset and sunrise from the temples, which were disappointingly unspectacular due to the clouds and fog. But the sounds of howler monkeys as we were hiking in the dark made up for it, although the voices of hundreds of people hiking along side of us did detract from the experience. In the daylight, I loved seeing spider monkeys swing from tree to tree, and toucans flying around; needless to say, lack of color in the sunset and rise wasn’t the end of the world. I would say the best part, though, was when our guide tore into another tourist for feeding the wildlife. It was brilliant. And of course, climbing the temples was stunning, and more of a workout than I had expected!
After some adventures throughout Guate, it was time for gringas (and Eefje) to invade my site. Nearly everyone thought that they were my sisters, even if they already knew that I only have one sister and she’s not coming until December. Allison and Eefje came Tuesday and left Thursday; Jeanne and Erin came Wednesday and left Monday. Thus, the two pairs were seen together by very few people, leading most people to believe that they were the same two friends. Obviously not the case (which you'll see once I put up some pictures).
Allison and Eefje didn’t stay long, but they were able to see the pageant to elect a new queen of the elementary school, we strolled through the market, and, of course, I took them out to Las Conchas. It was the first time I was really able to have fun there; typically, I go to work, or if we are going just to hang out, it’s with old men, which is just awkward.
Jerin does Chahal
Early Thursday morning they were off, and it was Jeanne and Erin’s turn to get to know Chahal. Since they just received their Master’s in Teaching, I figured I’d take them to my environmental education class. It was a riot. The kids loved having three gringas teaching them. We did a role play of water contamination where the kids had to put chemicals, trash, soap and urine into the river (a bucket) then we asked them if they wanted to drink it. The best part was when the queen of the school had to “pee” in the “river.” At the end, Jeanne added an English class which was also a riot. They’re typically taught:
Hello.
How are you?
I am fine.
My name is ______.
Instead, she taught them to say:
Hi.
What’s up?
You’re hot.
Call me.
It was especially hilarious when a kid said out of script, “you’re hot” to Jeanne.
That evening we were invited to a convivio with the muni in one of the communities. They were celebrating a new potable water project and signing the papers for it. It is incredible for these people – they will finally have running water after all their lives of hiking down to the river to carry it up on their heads. One of the leaders of the community thanked the muni for the project and coming to share in the celebration, then he said to us in Q’eqchi’, of course, “I have no idea who you are or why you’re here, but thank you for being here and visiting our community.” It was amazing. So I stood up and did my best in Q’eqchi’ to introduce ourselves and thank them. It was the best round of applause I’ve ever received. I just wish I could speak more Q’eqchi’, but it all comes with time, and depends on finding a good teacher. I’m now on my third and she’s not looking promising.
A New Interpretation of the Chicken Bus
As you may know, in Guatemala most of the transportation is on what we like to call “Chicken Buses.” They are old U.S. school buses that have made the trip south, received a new paint job, a luggage (or animal) rack on top, and a new motor, and now load up with sometimes more than twice their approved carrying capacity. We call them chicken buses because people tend to bring their chickens (among other animals) on the buses (likely transporting them to the market). Sadly, these buses are rare in my region of the country, but on my way back from Las Conchas with Jeanne and Erin we discovered a new kind of Chicken Bus.
We hopped on the microbus to head back to town after a refreshing dip in the river. It was relatively empty and we spread ourselves out in the back seat. There was a woman in the first row and a man in the second. I’m not sure which one the chickens belonged to, but now it doesn’t matter. They were little baby chickens with their legs tied together by string, and still alive, mind you. The man began picking them up, one by one, dangling them out the window for a moment by their feet, then dropping them. Maybe they were sick, but whether they were or not, he dropped live chickens out the window of the bus to suffer in the heat with their legs tied together. I don’t really understand. Especially because if they weren’t of value anymore, why would he have brought them on the micro in the first place? For that reason, I assume they were still decent chickens. Thus my next question is, why would he toss to the side of the road a potential source of food and/or income for his family, when they don’t likely have much? It remains a mystery to me.
Other Adventures in Chahal
Las Cuevas de Setzol – The caves in my site that are a potential ecotourism location. I took Jeanne and Erin there with some of my chapine (Guatemalan) friends. I had been once but didn’t go swimming that time. So this time we went swimming in the large river that passes through the amphitheater-like cave. It was incredible!
Marimba, no wait, cantina – The evening after the caving adventure there was a marimba concert and my friend’s school. He invited us to come learn to dance marimba. It was supposed to start at 8 o’clock; we arrived at 9 and they weren’t even close to starting, so instead we went and had some beers in a nearby cantina. (I originally thought that it would ruin my reputation to drink in town, but I have since learned that in the right places, it is okay for me to have a few.) We had a couple beers and ended up missing the concert. When we left, the girls insisted on paying, but the woman behind the counter wouldn’t even touch their money! They left it anyway, but the guys were not too happy about that later. Oh well, part of the Peace Corps mission is to share our culture, right?
Chino’s Bomba – Chino is the little boy that lives in my house. He is a riot; I love playing with him, anything from tickling to wrestling to just swinging him around. Typically, though, I just so much as poke him and he falls down on the floor laughing hysterically. This time though, perhaps a special presentation for Jeanne and Erin, when I tickled him he let out a huge fart (bomba)! It was absolutely hilarious. I get such a kick out of that kid.
I Still Work Too…
- The other week I finally introduced myself to the auxiliary mayors (each community has their own mayor). I gave them a short talk about the environment and offered my services to their schools. I really want to start getting out into the communities more and working with them.
- Last week I helped out two of the local teachers with an HIV/AIDS workshop for the 5th and 6th grade teachers in town. It’s something I’m planning on making a secondary project here. It’s definitely something they lack in their education, although, surprisingly, sex education is required in Guatemalan schools!
- Last month I started becoming hopeful that we were really going to start working after the exchange we did with the other park. However, I have still not met with the Municipal Corporation and the mayor. I was supposed to be in one of their meetings last week, but they didn’t let me come in. It’s quite frustrating. And the mayor just pisses me off because, even though he’s never here, he makes snide comments to me that I am off on vacation all the time. If he would bother to look at the plan I turn into him each month, or, heaven forbid, talk to me, he would realize that I have Peace Corps meetings that I have to go to, and that I used my vacation days when my friends came.
- My work relationship/friendship with my counterpart is really blossoming which will help my situation out a lot I think. We went to the park on Monday and had a productive meeting with the park guard.
San Luis Feria
Last weekend was the feria in my friend Alex’s town: San Luis Jilotepeque, Jalapa. It’s about 7 hours away, but was well worth the trip because some of my best friends in Peace Corps were there.
I started out the trip with chasing the microbus 8 blocks through town at 4 a.m. in my cowboy boots. It was supposed to show up at my house at 4:30 a.m. but I woke up to it honking at 3:45 a.m. I tried to stop it, but he couldn’t hear me shouting from the door and I wasn’t about to run outside in my underwear. By the time I threw on my clothes, he was gone. And that is the reason I sprinted through town. Luckily, I managed to not get bitten by any rabid dogs. Although one did receive a boot in the snout.
The highlights of the feria were climbing Volcan Ipala and swimming in its crater; dressing up in cowboy attire and going to the rodeo; dancing the night away; and, of course, just hanging out with those friends.
My Second Feria
Since we have two towns in Chahal, we have two ferias. It works out pretty well I think. Alex and I did “feria intercambio,” so she came to Chahal on Tuesday and stayed through Saturday. We ate some delicious tamales, watched the rodeo and danced like I’ve never danced in Chahal! The rodeo was pretty good, and PACKED! So many people and so few seats that people were watching from under the bleachers. On the last night of it, the announcer made the comment, “El que no aplauda tiene SIDA.” Translation: He that does not applaud has AIDS. After he said it the second time, I got up and asked him please not to say that, that it is hurtful and discriminating. He told me that if I want to do his job, fine, otherwise I can sit down or leave. He didn’t care to listen to me, but at least heard it. I was pretty pissed off after that, but it got better when some friends treated us to flour tortillas (I get a little tired of corn tortillas sometimes) and we went dancing. And the dance was more fun than any I’ve been to in my town yet … probably because people are no longer afraid to talk to me!
Biking to Las Conchas
I’ve always wanted to bike out to Las Conchas, but have never had anyone to do it with. But with Alex here, I had a biking buddy! I’ve heard a lot of numbers of how far it is, but I would say about 20 km each way. Between how shitty the road is and water, photo and chatting with local breaks, it took about 2 ½ one-way. It was absolutely amazing. The best thing I’ve done yet in my site. Being able to see the landscape slowly, without the noise of a motor was just spectacular. And stopping and chatting with the people from the communities – trying out my Q’eqchi’ on them. I’m now thinking this could be an option for ecotourism out here. By the time we got home we were absolutely beat, and soaked because it started raining at the end. But it was well worth it. I have missed so much feeling that point of complete exhaustion after extreme physical activity such as races and workouts, or the all-day hikes in Yellowstone. The one bummer was that we did not have enough energy to go to the marimba dance that night; I imagine there will be more in the 19 months that I have left here. (Yes, we are into the teens now! It is going by so fast … sometimes too fast.)
Bueno, until next time. Miss you all, and would love to hear from you!
Eventually, there will be pictures, but not yet. As you know, I live in rural Guatemala which means the internet connection is more like the tortoise than the hare!
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